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Author: Brandy

Winter Project Blog
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Winter DIY Projects | Crawl Space Encapsulation

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Brandy

Winter DIY projects – this is a great time to work in the Crawl Space and impact your entire home.

If you are putting together a home improvement to-do list, consider doing some work in your crawl space. Really, winter is a great time of year to work in the crawl space. The colder season means the crawl space will be the driest it will be all year. Plus, it’s indoors. It’s like a blank canvas just waiting for you!

Your crawl space project should begin with a goal in mind. Answer this question:
“I could use all this space to if it wasn’t __?”

In that answer you will gain a clear idea of the type of materials you will need and the scope of work that will need to be completed.

For example, you might answer:
“I could use all this space for storage if it wasn’t so humid and moldy during the summer.”

Extreme humidity and mold are two very important reasons to tackle this type of project, but you may also notice musty odors in both the lower level and upper living space, nasty insect or rodent infestation, poor indoor air quality, sweating or excess condensation on ductwork, wood rot, and finally, cold, uncomfortable or buckling floors. So, how can you combat these issues permanently and make use of all of that wasted space? Luckily, you have several options and products available to help you tackle the job.

In order to use the crawl space for storage, which is especially helpful for all of those holiday decorations and personal keepsakes, you should consider encapsulation. With encapsulation, a heavy-duty vapor barrier liner is installed on the crawl space floor and walls, giving you more durability and flexibility when it comes to utilizing the space. Not only do the liners seal your crawlspace off from harmful outside elements, but it is definitely friendlier for your knees. Imagine moving heavy boxes along a gravel or dirt floor. Ouch!

You can further seal up the area and improve the insulation of your crawl space by adding spray foam insulation into the mix. We recommend a product such as DOW Great Stuff Pro. This is a fantastic product that is cost effective and easy for any DIY’er to install themselves. This material, once installed in the floor joists, will stop drafts and make your home more energy efficient. And a more energy efficient home means less money out of your pocket for monthly bills.

Once you tackle sealing up the crawl space environment from the nasty odors and critters, it is time to attack the excess humidity. Hanging a dehumidifier designed specifically for the crawl space means dry air, which translates to no mold and moisture. This means safe storage for your belongings, and much better air quality for you. Plus, think of how much healthier your family will be not having all that mold in the house each summer!

So, if you are building that winter DIY list, add one more project – your crawl space. But keep in mind, not all encapsulation liners or dehumidifiers are created equal. A cheap plastic liner will deteriorate in a short period of time, can let off nasty odors, and will never truly seal off the space from the outside. A dehumidifier purchased from a big box store is not nearly as effective at managing your humidity levels as a professional-grade model.

Here at Crawl Space DIY, we offer all of the quality materials used by the best contractors in the country. I know, because I was one. And, don’t forget to utilize our pro advice and step-by-step installation guides.

Start your Winter DIY project today using by our planning tools in the Crawl Space Encapsulation DIY Step-By-Step guide.

Calculate Vapor Barriers
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Before You Buy: Compare Cost Per Square Foot of Crawl Space Vapor Barriers

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Brandy

Comparing online costs of vapor barriers for your crawl space project can be easy and effective. Using the following tips that Contractors use every day will make your comparison-shopping even more effective.

  1. Develop your installation strategy to determine your roll size combination before you shop.
  2. Look beyond the price of a roll, focus on square foot prices when comparing costs.
  3. Keep your focus on the overall project cost, not the price of one item.
  4. Know how to find the good stuff, comparing fabric weight to determine if you are getting the best value.

1. No one wants to purchase too little or way too much material. Thinking through how you want to install the vapor barriers can help you decide what combination of roll sizes will work best for your project. (See our project-planning guide for more information.)

Rules of thumb from the Pro’s: The fewer seams the better. Don’t put seams in the corner or at the floor cove (where wall and floor meet). Use seams to make difficult areas easier. Add 1’ overlap to every seam — from each side.

2. Shop like a pro. After you layout the project, it’s time to get the best project price. There is no standard size when it comes to rolls of vapor material, so Contractors who buy these products every week look beyond the roll price and compare the price per square foot.

Roll Sizeft2/RollCost/RollCost/ft2
CS-DIY6’ x 100’600$30551¢/ft2
11.5’ x 100’1150$51545¢/ft2
23.5’ x 50’1175$52545¢/ft2
Competitor “A”6’ x 50’300$17558¢/ft2
12′ x 110’1320$66050¢/ft2
24′ x 50’1200$66055¢/ft2
Competitor “B”6’ x 50’300$16555¢/ft2
6’ x 100’600$29750¢/ft2
12’ x 100’1200$57548¢/ft2

3. Don’t lose sight of the forest over a couple of trees. Find a fair and dependable supplier who is price competitive and work with them. All suppliers have a pricing strategy. No one is giving away anything for free and staying in business. Look at the complete package price, delivered to your home. Don’t forget our 6×100 is now free shipping!

4. Finally, finding the good stuff. Everyone claims to have the best products. But, all 20 mil vapor barriers are not the same. Not by a long shot.

The skinny on liner thickness. Plastic film and sheeting is measured in mil’s, 1/1000th of an inch. 20 mil is 20/1000ths of an inch thick. While ASTM D6988-13 sets thickness measuring standards for the entire plastic’s industry, just like with lumber, this is a nominal measurement. The entire surface area of a 20 mil vapor barrier is not actually 20 mil. And, manufacturing methods can make a big difference in durability. For crawl space liners, we believe that weight, expressed as pounds per thousand square feet (MSF) and/or ounces per square yard, CBR Puncture Resistance, reported as lbf (foot pounds), and perm rating – vapor transportation rate measured in grains/(ft²·hr·in Hg) – are the important numbers. Even if you don’t understand how they are calculated, we can all compare numbers. Look for the higher number when comparing Weight and CBR Puncture Resistance, and the lower perm numbers.

Thickness, NominalWeightCBR Puncture ResistancePERM Rating Imperial*
6 mil 0.15 mm4.9 oz/yd²208 lbf0.042 PERMS
12 mil 0.30 mm7.9 oz./yd²276 lbf0.023 PERMS
20 mil 0.51 mm14 oz./yd²340 lbf0.019 PERM

* The imperial calculation of perms is based on a square foot fabric sample; metric [g/(24hr·m²·mm Hg)] is based on a square meter of fabric. The metric method results in a much lower number. Make sure comparisons are made on the same scale. The 12 mil sited above has an Imperial rating of 0.023 perms and a metric rating of 0.015 perms.

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It’s All About the Fold!

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Brandy

After you stopped laughing at the contractor’s price to encapsulate your crawl space, you planned your DIY project by researching and ordering materials, and now you are ready to start the work.  A few hours spent preparing the crawl space and another hour preparing your materials outside the crawl space will save you twice the amount of time in the end.

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  1. Empty the crawl space. Really, everything but the furnace and pressure tank.
    1. Are you going to insulate the band board/rim joist area with spray foam? Do it as part of the clean out.  You don’t want spray foam all over your new liner.
    2. Clean it all out. Every piece of carpet and length of old door stop, the boxes, everything. You might be thinking, “it’s not going to be that big of a deal to move that small pile so I can put the liner there.”  It will add an hour, maybe more, and you will end up moving it 10 times.
    3. Leveling gravel is hard work. You should do it before you start installing liner.  The alternative is to get halfway done, rip out what you have already installed, level the gravel, and then start over.  It’s your call.  Thinking it won’t make that big of a difference?  Yeah, it will.
    4. Keep the crawlspace empty until you are finished. If you drag your rolls of liner and a box of project supplies into the crawlspace and start unrolling the liner, your project is doomed.  A roll of 20 Mil 12’ x 100’ weighs about 125lbs.  Most manufactures fold liner by length and width to produce manageable sized rolls.  Keep everything for the project outside near the crawlspace entry until it is needed.
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  1. It’s all about the fold! Cut your liner into sections and fold them so you can simply unfold them into place.
    1. Completely unroll and unfold your floor liner in a large open space like the lawn or driveway.
    2. Following your design plan, cut the floor liner into sections.
    3. With a section fully laid out, fold each long side over 1’. This is 1’ overlap that will go up the side wall or over/under the previous/ next section of floor liner.
    4. Next fold the 1’ wall overlaps at each end.
    5. Next, fold the width of the material in half, leading edge over the immediate seam edge.
    6. Finally, fan fold the length with the far end of the crawlspace on the bottom and the end closest to the entry on top. (I like to run two or three rings of cheap packing tape around each bundle to keep it folded and manageable)
    7. Label the section just in case your helper gets them out of order or turned over.

The goal is to have material ready.  Grab the next section, take it to the far end, unfold it easily and completely, double check your alignment, and double seal the seam.  Next section.  By folding all your 1’ wall and floor overlaps, lining up the next section is easy from the start.

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  1. A little comfort goes a long way. And, so does a little dirt management.
    1. If you are installing drainage mat under your liner, over gravel or dirt, install it first. Kneeling or crab-walking for the next few hours will be much easier on drainage mat then on gravel!  (Note:  The wall liner will go under the drainage mat.  But that is easy to do by just pulling up the edge of the mat and tucking the liner down flat.)
    2. You want the finished project to look great. So, if you don’t want to spend hours cleaning the liner after the install, a little dirt management goes a long way.  Most professional installers wear a disposable suit and boot covers until the drainage mat is installed so they can work on the liner in clean clothes and shoes.  Since you are at home, change your clothes and shoes.  Trust me, the white liners look great…  unless they are covered by dirt and dirty boot prints.
Bleach blog
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The Truth About Bleach & Mold

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Brandy

The Unless It Smells Like Bleach It Is Not Clean Misconception

Amongst the Holiday TV commercials this weekend was an ad for a bleach company selling a kitchen cleaning product. The message was, “unless it smells like bleach it is not clean.” This was a move to cast doubt on the efficacy of better smelling, non-bleach cleaning products sold by their competitors. The commercial ended with something close to: unless it smells like bleach the germs are not gone.

I get it, I understand advertising. The company is using a smell we easily recognize, calling it their smell, and connecting it to a result we all want: a clean and germ free home. But, does the smell of bleach in the air really mean the room is clean and safe? Will your mother-in-law walk into the house and think, “wow, what a clean and germ-free place to be,” just because it smells like a swimming pool?

Labels on bleach-based cleaners clearly state that they are intended (and effective) for cleaning hard (non-porous) materials. Germs or mold in porcelain sinks, on shower tile and Formica counter tops are probably cleaned away (for the moment) when you use these products. But what about the germs on your furniture, in the air, on the door and walls, or in the musty entry mat? What about all the porous materials in our homes?

The real problem is that we fall for these ads and equate the smell test to being proof something is a universal super cleaner. Thinking, “it smells like bleach, therefore it is clean,” does not mean it truly is.

Basement and Crawl Space mold is seldom on non-porous materials. Yet, people spray bleach based cleaners in these areas and think it is clean. It is not. The mold and mildew are not dead. Most laundry bleach is 3% chlorine and 97% water. Most bleach-based cleaners are not that strong.

Moldy drywall, cement block, and wood floor joists are not “clean” because they have been sprayed with a bleach based cleaner. In most conditions, Chlorine evaporates faster than water. Giving the moldy drywall a good soaking with these cleaners will kill some of the mold on the surface, and then when the chlorine has evaporated, the water left behind gives the mold what it needs to flourish – water.

But there is good news! Some Peroxide-based cleaners or cleaner/disinfectants are effective at killing mold, mildew, and germs on hard and soft porous materials alike. Some Peroxide-based cleaners, like Anabec Cleaner, dry deep in wood and drywall, thus creating a barrier that slows or prevents future growth. And they do it without the acrid smell of chlorine. If you want to make sure your mother-in-law knows your house is clean, deal with the mold and mildew growing in the basement or crawl space using a cleaner designed to get the job done.

For more information on Anabec’s Peroxide based mold cleaners and disinfectants visit our website at: www.crawlspace-DIY.com

winter tips blog
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DIY Winter Tips

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Brandy

Is your home or business ready for the wrath of old man winter? Your pros at Crawl Space DIY have put together some simple DIY Winter Tips that will help to keep you warm, dry and safe all season long. Read through the details below and be sure to check out our helpful info-graphic

Leaks & Cracks:

One of the easiest problems to correct can also save you the most money. Small leaks and cracks, especially around windows, doors, electrical outlets and pipes let the cold winter air in and your warm heat out. Sealing these areas with spray foam and other insulation materials will stop drafts, make your home more energy efficient, and ultimately save you money. We recommend a product such as DOW Great Stuff Pro. This is a fantastic product that is cost effective and easy for any DIY’er to install themselves.

Ice Damming:

Many people that we talk to are unfamiliar with the term ice damming. An ice dam is a ridge of ice that forms at the edge of a roof and prevents melting snow (water) from draining off of the roof. When this occurs, major damage to the roof, gutters, attic and anything below on the ground is a real possibility. This is why we recommend that you clear your gutters to protect against ice damming and have proper insulation in the attic. This is a simple yet easily forgotten DIY Winter Tip.

Frozen Discharge Line Protection:

Have you experienced the pains of a frozen discharge line? Did the basement flood as a result? This is a big concern for those in colder climates with sump pumps and high water tables. As the temperatures drop below freezing, the risk of a frozen discharge line increases exponentially. If your discharge line is blocked, cracked or broken from the output at the house to where it dumps into a pop-up in the yard or releases into the street, the water is likely to freeze and then back up into your basement. When your sump pump has nowhere to deliver the water, the basin over-fills and your basement begins to flood. This is why we recommend that every home have a Freeze Relief kit installed on the sump pump discharge line. Installing a Freeze Relief automatically prevents discharge line back-up and guards your home against ice and flooding during the coldest winter weather. The Freeze Relief kit is actually very easy to install for DIY’ers, and if you have any questions, one of our experts would be happy to walk you through the steps.

Do you have an old thermostat in your home or business? If you do, you might want to consider a programmable thermostat like the Nest or even one of Honeywell’s offerings. There are so many options on the market that allow long term programming and can even be controlled from outside of the home. Reports indicate that if you follow their recommended program settings, you can save up to 10% on heating and cooling. Personally, I like the idea of the increased comfort by jumping on my cell phone and cranking up the heat before I leave work. This way the house is nice and toasty before I get home.

Temperature:

Sump Pump:

You should make a habit of checking your sump pump on a fairly regular basis. Being in this business, I check mine a few times a month if I haven’t heard it kicking on just to be safe. With the sump pump being the heart of your waterproofing system, you cannot be without one or the risk of your basement flooding is greatly increased. I keep a DIY Winter Tips on hand just in case there is an issue, and I also have a DIY Winter Tips on my sump pump system. Did you know that the average life of a sump pump is 5 to 10 years? Several factors play into that numbers, and discharge cycles are one you should pay close attention to. If the sump pump fails, you will them be overwhelmed by flood cleanup costs, repair bills and the personal pain for any items that money cannot replace.

Tree Branches:

The winter months can be very hard on trees as the cold makes them brittle, and it is common to have ice and snow build-up that causes branches to snap or trees to be damaged. Walk the perimeter of your home or business to check for tree branches that could be a risk to your home or to power lines to prevent damage during storms.

Insulation:

Your basement and crawl space are two very easy places to begin a DIY Winter project. One of the biggest improvements you can make to your home is through crawl space encapsulation. When done properly and when using the appropriate products, you can improve the air you breathe, keep pests out, reduce concerns over water issues and improve energy efficiency. You can improve on the insulation properties by installing spray foam in the floor joists and a radiant barrier on the walls. Radiant barrier will help in the cold winter as well as the hot summer.

Street Outlets:

This DIY Winter Tip really ties into Frozen Discharge Line Protection and even Sump Pumps. If your street outlet is blocked by soil, weeds, ice or other debris, the water backs up in the PVC pipe and eventually into your basement if it doesn’t have anywhere else to go. If you have a high water table and an active sump pump as a result, you need to break the ice away at the street on a regular basis. In times of heavy snow, it is also a good idea to check the street outlet for the discharge line after a snow plow makes its way down your road. They commonly pack snow and ice into the discharge line which causes backup. Again, this increases the importance of having a Freeze Relief kit on the discharge line to reduce the risk of basement flooding.

We hope that you have enjoyed reading these DIY Winter Tips and find them helpful. If you have any questions on your projects or any products that we carry, please contact us and we will be happy to help you.

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